tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-61358147339911703662024-03-06T14:33:23.518+11:00Shelldrake's Wargaming BlogThe activities and musing of a wargamerShelldrakehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10719790045474525633noreply@blogger.comBlogger182125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6135814733991170366.post-59937936585822381642024-01-20T17:03:00.004+11:002024-01-20T17:03:51.003+11:00Tiles for the Portable wargame<p> I have begun work on my 8cm square tiles for the project.</p><p>The ones in the photo below are the basic road and grassed tiles, and I have hills, forests, rivers and towns to follow when I have time to do more work on the tiles.</p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhndCs1ZEH2cWrQNA7xi0vRtUT-BhYatYv0EM_np0VMtKL7lJ17m9UjX0BkEmuR1OiZT2l92VZvz9u4l7k3yTzzz2isDAph0qNTtSy2ToyzjHQVc3SsOTGr-ATUQYygcJ6wUiAZGTbSe6ce9psSLe5oUYy427SMBeCH-yvJTeeMyZBWUHEok819SAMYrw/s3282/portable%20tiles.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3282" data-original-width="2626" height="414" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhndCs1ZEH2cWrQNA7xi0vRtUT-BhYatYv0EM_np0VMtKL7lJ17m9UjX0BkEmuR1OiZT2l92VZvz9u4l7k3yTzzz2isDAph0qNTtSy2ToyzjHQVc3SsOTGr-ATUQYygcJ6wUiAZGTbSe6ce9psSLe5oUYy427SMBeCH-yvJTeeMyZBWUHEok819SAMYrw/w331-h414/portable%20tiles.jpg" width="331" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><p id="blogfeeds"><$BlogFeedsVertical$></p></div>Shelldrakehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10719790045474525633noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6135814733991170366.post-60709068029521715272024-01-16T15:27:00.002+11:002024-01-16T15:27:51.555+11:002024 projects and a restart of my blog<p> This is my first blog post in a few years. A lot has happened since I last posted here, much of which I wont go in to details of.</p><p><br /></p><p>But, I have been tinkering away in the background on my hobbies over the last few years, and in an effort to be more productive with them, and in an attempt to minimise my use of social media, I will post more here.</p><p><br /></p><p>So, I am currently playing a 'County Road Z' zombie apocalypse campaign with a work friend that has never wargamed before. He is enjoying the game and we are up to campaign turn 4.</p><p>I purchased A Fistful of Tows, and will try to build two armies for solo play during the year.</p><p>I have painted up some Pendraken 10mm WW1 miniatures, and so far have a small force of both British and German, with some French undercoated ready to add to the collection.</p><p>I am also very interested in Pendraken Miniatures Boer War range, and hope to paint up some tiny armies to play out games from the second half of the war.</p><p>I have ordered some 6mm 3D printed Napoleonic miniatures, and originally they were for use with the "Soldiers of Napoleon" set of rules, but I think I will use the 'Portable Wargame" rules instead, as I don't have a lot of room to set up a full table.</p><p>Mentioning the Portable Wargame, some 8cm square MDF tiles arrived in the mail today, and I will begin making terrain tiles for the game using them. </p><p>The photo below is of some of the tiles laid out. I have enough for an 8 x 9 square battlefield, and extras to make hill and forest tiles as needed.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM8hd4L8q-T71oqmps-Pmg5_ywdY4I8D0mWo-GstFKXF6yrpEvAaz_XhPk27NDiE8K2cuW-eRp9gLw7asT7GOX5MccGPsIRJh_dHDzuOoX1BikPlDWSS1xAFNb7Ia1-Ry7_TRajVqBhDlpv9oVFVt7zoxWCcoyBIIMt9V6FWsrxztKW3B4t3ae2J4c06k/s4160/IMG20240116150234.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4160" data-original-width="3120" height="398" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhM8hd4L8q-T71oqmps-Pmg5_ywdY4I8D0mWo-GstFKXF6yrpEvAaz_XhPk27NDiE8K2cuW-eRp9gLw7asT7GOX5MccGPsIRJh_dHDzuOoX1BikPlDWSS1xAFNb7Ia1-Ry7_TRajVqBhDlpv9oVFVt7zoxWCcoyBIIMt9V6FWsrxztKW3B4t3ae2J4c06k/w298-h398/IMG20240116150234.jpg" width="298" /></a></div><div><br /></div>I am also intendingn to use my 10mm WW1 figures with the Portable Wargame, so will be experimenting with some trench tiles to see if I can make something half decent to represent trenches. <div><br /></div><div>I also have a 28mm WW2 Syrian Campaign project I am working on, with some Australians and Vichy French in the lead pile. This will be a skirmish game.<br /><p><br /></p></div><div class="blogger-post-footer"><p id="blogfeeds"><$BlogFeedsVertical$></p></div>Shelldrakehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10719790045474525633noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6135814733991170366.post-33723322085064370032018-07-19T10:29:00.000+10:002018-07-19T10:29:59.302+10:00Highland Minotaur game - some Highlanders?Flags of war have been posting some photos of their greens from their upcoming Jacobite Rebellion range on facebook, and they look perfect for my game concept.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://scontent-syd2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/37533603_2216771311671829_3446738369168539648_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&_nc_eui2=AeFvSiJdJgC7h7WupldHsWn5jFZqSNumPxVlCNqKGu9ljEg1kqjvklR06F1PPqaq0B36_a1P0AZ4MEg2yXvR14zFFYsiQ8T-GdcVfYBwmrHVng&oh=ccbc4f2870e923799683fa3c801d489c&oe=5BCD959F" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="510" data-original-width="679" height="240" src="https://scontent-syd2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/37533603_2216771311671829_3446738369168539648_n.jpg?_nc_cat=0&_nc_eui2=AeFvSiJdJgC7h7WupldHsWn5jFZqSNumPxVlCNqKGu9ljEg1kqjvklR06F1PPqaq0B36_a1P0AZ4MEg2yXvR14zFFYsiQ8T-GdcVfYBwmrHVng&oh=ccbc4f2870e923799683fa3c801d489c&oe=5BCD959F" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Image from direct link posted by Flags of War<br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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These character figures, and some of the standard Highlanders would be perfect as part of the Minotaur's warband for taking on the sassenachs.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://ksr-ugc.imgix.net/assets/021/486/543/052a2ded292e84bb316db7ab820117f4_original.jpg?w=639&fit=max&v=1528267720&auto=format&q=92&s=dc47571fd7392771c1015358edda13e4" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="639" height="240" src="https://ksr-ugc.imgix.net/assets/021/486/543/052a2ded292e84bb316db7ab820117f4_original.jpg?w=639&fit=max&v=1528267720&auto=format&q=92&s=dc47571fd7392771c1015358edda13e4" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Image from direct link posted by Flags of War<br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Now, I know I have a very poor chance of painting Tartan on miniatures, but I hope to attempt a reasonable copy of the Clan Duncan tartan, as I have a healthy bit of Duncan blood in my ancestry:<br />
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<a href="https://www.scotclans.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/Duncan_mod_big.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="300" src="https://www.scotclans.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/Duncan_mod_big.jpg" /></a></div>
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So if anyone has any tips for painting tartan, please let me know. And no, I don't want any suggestions on buying a pot of tartan paint.<br />
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<br /><div class="blogger-post-footer"><p id="blogfeeds"><$BlogFeedsVertical$></p></div>Shelldrakehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10719790045474525633noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6135814733991170366.post-92123880457451993512018-07-12T18:54:00.000+10:002018-07-12T18:54:02.478+10:00Highland Minotaur... orderedThe Bears Head Miniatures "Highland Minotaur" has been released for sale, and I eagerly await it's arrival Down Under.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DedzIQbXkAAgIfo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="640" height="320" src="https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DedzIQbXkAAgIfo.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">BHM Highland Minotaur - image via direct link to the BHM web site</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Now I need to wait for the Jacobite Rebellion miniatures mentioned in my previous post to start the game along.<br />
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On the rules side of thing, the Black Powder supplement for Open Combat Skirmish Game are a step closer to being released, which is what I will need to play what I have in mind.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><p id="blogfeeds"><$BlogFeedsVertical$></p></div>Shelldrakehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10719790045474525633noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6135814733991170366.post-48563088855177035522018-06-25T11:29:00.000+10:002018-06-25T11:29:10.939+10:00Highland MinotaurI came across Bears Head Miniatures (<a href="https://www.bearsheadminis.com/">https://www.bearsheadminis.com/</a>) last night whilst looking at twitter, and saw the most amazing Highland Minotaur figure.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DedzIQbXkAAgIfo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="640" height="320" src="https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DedzIQbXkAAgIfo.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">image from Bears Head Miniatures url... not my own</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="https://twitter.com/Yfronto/status/1001896029103575040" target="_blank">The tweet with the minotaur</a><br />
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To say I was caught my the 'oooh, shiny!' syndrome is an understatement.<br />
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This figure needs to be brought to life in either a wargame campaign, or a role playing game. <br />
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Not that I need an excuse to buy this miniature, but I want an excuse to buy it.<br />
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So, my twisted brain envisages an 18th Century setting, with the Minotaur being a kind of 'Rob Roy' / Myth for the locals. Maybe it could even be a 'werebull'?<br />
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I really need a 'punny' (Pun + Funny) name for this character, but my brain isn't working at the moment.<br />
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But, I am coming up with some back story.<br />
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The area of "Loch Cai" (Cai, it appears, is a Scottish word for Cow) has a legend of a Man-beast that protects the fold* of highland cattle.<br />
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* apparently a herd is called a fold when it comes to Highland cattle.<br />
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It is rumoured that this beast lives atop a foggy hill called "Tulach Cai" that is dotted with standing stones and cairns.<br />
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Inspiration can be drawn for the setting from the following images (all images are URLs and not my own):<br />
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<a href="https://instituteofwander.files.wordpress.com/2015/11/file3238.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="536" data-original-width="800" height="214" src="https://instituteofwander.files.wordpress.com/2015/11/file3238.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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So, to the game itself.<br />
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As I mentioned, it would be an 18th Century setting. Part of it will involve the Highland Clearances (<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Highland_Clearances" target="_blank">Highland Clearances</a>) and the Jacobite Rebellion. This will give me the best option for figures.<br />
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Flags of War are releasing some Jacobite Rebellion figures (seen here: <a href="https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/553354256/28mm-1745-jacobite-rebellion-miniatures" target="_blank">28mm 1745 jacobite rebellion miniatures</a> ), which are just brilliant judging by the photos, so I would be keen to get some of those when they are released.<br />
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If they go on to also produce English I will be very happy, especially if they make mounted and dismounted dragoons.<br />
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And yes, I do know that Rob Roy was a bit earlier than the Jacobite Rebellion of 1745, but I can get ideas for the game from his history/myth.<br />
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<ul>
<li><b><span style="color: orange;">Rules and Scenarios</span></b></li>
</ul>
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I think the rules "Open Combat" would be perfect for this game, as I can play using a small collection of figures in a small area, which will help keep the cost down.<br />
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There is a black powder supplement in the making for Open Combat, which will be perfect for the time line, but until it is released, I will just have to use the rules as they are.<br />
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For scenarios I can play raids and ambush actions, and I might have to watch "Outlander" (I can feel some of you shuddering as you read that) to steal ideas for the game.<br />
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<ul>
<li><b style="color: orange;">Need a name for the Minotaur</b></li>
</ul>
<br />
Ok, so I need to come up with a punny, yet cool, name for the main character of my idea, which is of course the Highland minotaur.<br />
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Any suggestions are most welcome.<br />
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<ul>
<li><b style="color: orange;">Notes</b></li>
</ul>
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<br />
This link was helpful with geographical names: <a href="https://www.cuhwc.org.uk/page/meanings-gaelic-words-commonly-seen-hill-names" target="_blank">gaelic commonly seen hill names</a><div class="blogger-post-footer"><p id="blogfeeds"><$BlogFeedsVertical$></p></div>Shelldrakehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10719790045474525633noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6135814733991170366.post-71533320425721839832018-03-19T09:57:00.002+11:002018-03-19T09:57:45.842+11:00I will just leave this here...This arrived today! Not bad considering it wasn't due for release until the 22nd.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifP9qy0gQHI_hwh68pAm-t6_NllQ5ZXx2J7oL2WQk8IJ7XxwQNwtNiNcVcg4TOksTbALbiWE5V7EPbWih3aRl8VNhSwAsed2pOmmlOn6Oyr6mzjF05hyphenhyphenpySyjl7EE-9SJIPsk-IcBy3b8/s1600/legion.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifP9qy0gQHI_hwh68pAm-t6_NllQ5ZXx2J7oL2WQk8IJ7XxwQNwtNiNcVcg4TOksTbALbiWE5V7EPbWih3aRl8VNhSwAsed2pOmmlOn6Oyr6mzjF05hyphenhyphenpySyjl7EE-9SJIPsk-IcBy3b8/s320/legion.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<br /><div class="blogger-post-footer"><p id="blogfeeds"><$BlogFeedsVertical$></p></div>Shelldrakehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10719790045474525633noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6135814733991170366.post-51549249623387523412018-02-19T09:27:00.001+11:002018-02-19T09:27:18.874+11:00Australian Red Centre faction for ' Right Bloody Mess'I have finished my first test paint for one of the 'A Right Bloody Mess' factions.<br />
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This one is from the Australian Red Centre faction, one of the few factions from within the book I am using, as opposed to ones I have created myself.<br />
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The ARC is kind of a resistance movement against the Westralia (Western Australia ceded from the Federation and took the Northern Territory).<br />
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Whilst I don't have any figures to represent Westralia, the ARC are enemies of Victoria, and they even sent troops to the NSW Riverina area, which is where I will be using them. <br />
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I used one of Eureka Miniatures 15mm WW1 British in the Sinai range, using
the logic that the outback of Australia these blokes would come from would suit the uniform.<br />
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The paint was still wet when I took the photos, and I used my dodgy
phone camera, thus why the image is a bit blury, but you should be able
to get the idea.<br />
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I still need to varnish and base the figure.<br />
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I really like these figures, so I am keen to finish them, and as there
were some cavalry figures in the same range, I might even add to my ARC
forces.<br />
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<div class="blogger-post-footer"><p id="blogfeeds"><$BlogFeedsVertical$></p></div>Shelldrakehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10719790045474525633noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6135814733991170366.post-35870460743094275242018-02-17T15:01:00.001+11:002018-02-17T15:01:30.692+11:00Eight Factions for "A Right Bloody Mess' Australian civil warI managed to visit Eureka miniatures to day to buy some 15mm figures to make up some different factions for the 'A Right Bloody Mess" Australian civil war set in 1933.<br />
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As I am only playing at section/squad level, I don't need a whole lot of figures, and because of this, I was able to afford enough figures for eight factions.<br />
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I laid out each faction in rows for the above photo, so from top to bottom you have:<br />
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<b>The Murray River League</b>, a faction loyal to the Federation that skirmishes with Victorian troops along the Murray River. <i>(The Figures are WW2 US sailors)</i><br />
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<b>Riverina Troops</b>: troops from the NSW Riverina area that ceded from NSW and are backed by Victoria. <i>(WW2 early USCM)</i><br />
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<b>The Tobacco Growers Federation</b>: a militia group from North Eastern Victoria that were raised to defend their lands from other factions, and to send troops to help the Riverina. They are allied with Victoria. <i>(I am using WW2 Italian Bersaglieri for these troops, as historically a lot of Italians went to grow Tobacco in the region in the early 1930s)</i><br />
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<b>The Wine Growers Association</b>: This is a Communist Union with troops across Australia where ever grapes are grown to make wine. This particular mob is out to take the lands from the Victorian Tobacco Growers Federation as the fertile lands would be perfect to grow more grapes. (WW1 Bulgarians)<br />
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<b>Victorian Light Horse</b>: one of the many units that forms part of the Victorian standing army. (WW1 Australian Light Horse)<br />
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<b>Australian Red Centre</b>: their main enemy is Westralia, but ARC troops do come in to conflict from time to time with Victorian troops, and can be found meddling in the Riverina conflict. (WW1 British in the Sinai)<br />
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An as yet <b>un-named Militia</b> group: but they are most likely to be a workers Union of some kind. As I visited Eureka Miniatures in person I was able to purchase just the figures with caps, giving them a very civilian look. I thought I actually had a faction named for these figures, but for the life of me can't find where I made the notes. (WW2 Russian partisans)<br />
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and the final faction is:<br />
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<b>The NSW Communist Party</b> (a sub group of <b>the Communist Part of Australia</b>): This name is probably just a working title until I come up with something better. (Viet Minh from the French-Indo China range)<br />
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I am intending to paint up one of each of the figures to see what I come up with for the uniforms, and I intend to post each faction with the uniform once I had done so.<br />
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<br /><div class="blogger-post-footer"><p id="blogfeeds"><$BlogFeedsVertical$></p></div>Shelldrakehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10719790045474525633noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6135814733991170366.post-86201209729145019132018-02-08T18:31:00.001+11:002018-02-08T18:31:19.953+11:00A Right Bloody Mess - Australian Civil War alternative history settingBack in January 2017 I visited Eureka Miniatures and Nic showed me a draft copy for an Australian Civil War source book called "A Right Bloody Mess".<br />
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This source book is designed to initiate the gaming setting and then let it develope as wargamers fight out battles on the table top. It can be used in conjuntion of any set of rules, and can be played at section level right up to large battles with thousands of troops.<br />
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I took a printed flyer home with me that had some basic information printed on both sides, and I began my eager wait for the book to be published.<br />
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One year later and I purchased my copy, although the book had been released in late 2017.<br />
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As some readers might rember, I love alternative history. What is even better is alternative history involving Australia.<br />
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The Australian Civil War is set in 1933 and has Western Australia and Victoria cede from the Federation. This is amid the hotbed that are Unions, Communists, Fascists, and a multitude of factions fighting agaist anyone who opposes their goals. This is actually over simplifying it a bit.<br />
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When I first purchased my copy of the book, which Matthew very kindly autographed for me in the Eureka Miniatures shop, I fully intended to post a review on the book.<br />
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This is easier said than done. The book if jammed packed full of information that, to be honest, I find it rather difficult to know where to begin, let alone the words needed to fully express how much I like the book!<br />
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So, I will cheat.<br />
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This is a blog post from the Author listing the full contents of the book. This hopefully will give readers an idea just how much information there is:<br />
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<a href="https://arbm1933.blogspot.com.au/2017/12/a-right-bloody-mess-has-arrived.html" target="_blank">ARBM contents</a><br />
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Next, here is a link to the ARBM forum section from the A Very British Civil Forum that has a review:<br />
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<a href="https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/vbcf/arbm-first-look-t4717.html" target="_blank">The War Room: A Right Bloody Mess!</a><br />
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If you are interested and want to start or join in a discussion on ARBM, then please visit the forum: <a href="https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/vbcf/a-right-bloody-mess-f80/" target="_blank">ARBM Forum</a><br />
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I have started a couple of topic in the forum, but will post some of the topics here too.<br />
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<br /><div class="blogger-post-footer"><p id="blogfeeds"><$BlogFeedsVertical$></p></div>Shelldrakehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10719790045474525633noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6135814733991170366.post-28658142654986418532017-12-25T16:50:00.000+11:002017-12-25T16:50:21.580+11:00Rio Diablo - a 28mm Wild West Campaign. Prologue: "Owlhoots"I wanted to test out my Tray Battlefield, so I decided to play a 'prologue scene' for my Rio Diablo Wild West setting.<br />
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The idea of the setting is to play a number of games in the tray that are basically scenes from a story. They are used to direct the flow of the campaign and develope the story.<br />
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To kick the game off I pitted three Owlhoots against a lone cow boy tending some cows.<br />
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I rolled for initiative, and as the Cowboy rolled really high vs the Owlhoots, I decided he wasn't caught alseep in his tent and would appear from a randomly chosen side of the tray, and this is where the action would kick off.<br />
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The Cowboy took a couple of shots at the closest Owlhoot, wounding him before getting a bit of concealment behind his tent.<br />
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This was the last action the Cowboy managed to get in, as the Owlhoots advanced and the shotguns two of them were totting soon silenced their victim.<br />
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After killing the Cowboy, the Owlhoots made off with his cows.<br />
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This ended the prologue scene, setting up the initial event for the campaign.<br />
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The main characters of the campaign are a couple of Rangers and the game starts with them attempting to track down the Owlhoots.<br />
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To do this they will need to find clues at each crime scene or by visiting different locations in Rio Diablo to question folks about 'going ons and happenings'.<br />
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Once they get enough clues they can confront the Owlhoots at their hideout. The longer they take to find the hideout, the more crimes the Owlhoots will get up to.<br />
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Each scene will provide a clue or two for them to find. In this case, they found two clues when to came to where the Cowboy was killed:<br />
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Game notes:<br />
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I used a modified version/mix of Iron Ivan Games "Disposable Heroes: Point Blank" and "Where Heroes Dare".<br />
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The rules worked really well, but as with all the Iron Ivan games I have played over a much bigger playing area, you need a lot of cover/obstacles.This didn't worry me for the first game, as I kind of needed the Cowboy to be killed, but played out the game, as any casualties the Owlhoots took would give the Rangers more clues to work with.<br />
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Over all the game took roughtly 30 mins to play. It was so quick I tried my hand at a pulp game in the tray to see how that would work:<br />
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I am happy with the games I can play in the tray, but I certainly need to modify/refine the rules I am using to cope with only a small number of figures in a small area. The two things I need to focus on is scenery/cover and victory conditions for each game. <br />
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<div class="blogger-post-footer"><p id="blogfeeds"><$BlogFeedsVertical$></p></div>Shelldrakehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10719790045474525633noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6135814733991170366.post-5493735644565465182017-12-23T16:20:00.000+11:002017-12-24T07:06:59.875+11:00Using a tray for a battlefieldMonths ago I had a lingering man flu that really stuffed my lungs up.
When I was resting up I really wanted to play a game, and I was eyeing
off the tray I was eating a meal from.<br />
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This gave me an idea for making scenery to play a game. <br />
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I created some removable terrain bases to put in the tray and put some figures and scenery on to see what it looked like.<br />
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This is what I came up with for a 15mm scale game:<br />
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There is just enough room to play a squad level game on the tray.<br />
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Same tray with a 15mm tank on it to give it some perspective:<br />
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The green terrain boards I made warped a bit, so this made me think of doing something a bit more permanent.<br />
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This meant buying a new tray that would be ok to 'destroy' to make my playing area.<br />
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I went to Bunnings and purchased an MDF tray.<br />
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I taped the inside edges, undercoated it lightly in black, and then flocked it. <br />
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The tray was much smaller, and doesn't really work for 15mm squad level games, as you can see in the following photo where I placed five figures on the tray with a tank:<br />
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This is a photo with a Russian village and two full opposing squads placed on the tray:<br />
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It looks good, but there just isn't any room to manoeuvre.<br />
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So I started thinking that maybe using one to five 28mm figures per side might work better in my smaller tray. I placed some basic scenery and a couple of figure (including some that are a work in progress) to see if I could be done:<br />
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I was very happy with the results. You could easily play a small skirmish in the tray.<br />
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I honestly don't think any modern game would work well due to the range of firearms, but anything from Black powder backwards in history would work.<br />
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I got to thinking that maybe Wild West, Pulp and 1920's gangster games would work, and they tend to be in close action wise.<br />
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And what would work is if you added the fronts of buildings only and not the whole building. This would allow for scenery to be placed in the tray, but not take up so much room.<br />
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This was my initial concept photo to see if my idea had any legs so to speak:<br />
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Next I knocked together the shell of a Wild West building to see if it would really work:<br />
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I was happy with the results, as I could have a town in the tray for a shoot out, and there was room to hide around the corners to give cover to the figures:<br />
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Making the most of my enthusiasm on this project, I cobbled together a small collection of buildings of various types and sizes and came up with this:<br />
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Now I need to add the planking to the buildings, as well as windows and doors, and it will be good to go. I might even buy an new MDF tray so I can have sand as a base instead of grass... it would be better for a Wild West town.<br />
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I also intend to make an "adobe town" using the same method and some wilderness 'scenes' with trees, rocks so that I can vary where the game is played.<br />
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If I were to play a campaign, each battle would be a scene in a story rather than a whole chapter. <br />
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The great thing about the 'tray battlefield' as I am calling it, is that it is easy to move around with it, doesn't take up much room and can sit across your lap when you are in a chair.<br />
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Put your scenery and figures in a box and you have a game you can take with you on holidays for example.<br />
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You can also keep up to date with what I am doing with my Tray Battlefield on twitter. Either follow "@shelldeake_au" or search for #TrayBattlefield.<br />
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<br /><div class="blogger-post-footer"><p id="blogfeeds"><$BlogFeedsVertical$></p></div>Shelldrakehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10719790045474525633noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6135814733991170366.post-82684988671418412392017-12-12T10:49:00.003+11:002017-12-12T10:59:17.740+11:00Blotz 28mm 'Spawning pool' for charityAs part of recent order from Blotz (link here: <a href="http://blotz.co.uk/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=23" target="_blank">Blotz</a> ) in the UK I received a piece of scenery that I didn't order.<br />
<br />
I contacted them to let them know that they made a mistake and that I would be happy to pay for it, as I think I can use the spawning pool for a game.<br />
<br />
The reply came that it was included in the parcel to add a bit of firmness to the packet during shipping, and the spawning pool was in fact an item that didn't pass the quality control, and as such, wasn't sellable .<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://s26.postimg.org/4i2tzqhzt/DQvg_Lsl_UMAA7f_YQ.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://s26.postimg.org/4i2tzqhzt/DQvg_Lsl_UMAA7f_YQ.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">spawning pool is to the right in the photo</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I put the pool together this morning, and there was one or two places that weren't quite cut though by the laser, but nothing a bit of sanding wont fix.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://s26.postimg.org/vre7e8j2x/DQy6_Tlq_Vo_AAyo_IV.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://s26.postimg.org/vre7e8j2x/DQy6_Tlq_Vo_AAyo_IV.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The made pool - I have put it together, but not glued it yet</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Seeing as it was free as it were, this gave me an idea.<br />
<br />
I would like to paint it up and make it a half decent piece of scenery for a game and give it to someone. But, rather than just give it, I want to raise money for a charity, with one of people that donates going in a draw to win the item.<br />
<br />
I could use the pool myself for a fantasy game, a pulp game or even a
1920's horror game, but the idea using something I didn't pay for to
help a charity appeals to me more.<br />
<br />
This is where my plan comes undone; I have no idea how to go about this.<br />
<br />
Can anyone reading this post suggest how I could go about rainsing money and giving the pool to someone?<br />
<br />
Should I nominate a charity and anyone proving they donated (a screen shot of a completed invoice maybe?) or should I set up an online charity and people donate to it?<br />
<br />
I have never done this type of thing before, so I would really appreciate some assistance.<br />
<br />
oh, and please feel free to share this post with others via social media if you think it will help raise money for charity.<br />
<br />
<br />
One of charities I would consider helping out is "<a href="https://soldieron.org.au/" target="_blank">Solider On Australia</a>". Given that our hobby relates to military conflict, and I am about to complete my 26th year in the military, I think something like this might be appropriate. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br /><div class="blogger-post-footer"><p id="blogfeeds"><$BlogFeedsVertical$></p></div>Shelldrakehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10719790045474525633noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6135814733991170366.post-36524896013998313902017-12-10T08:39:00.000+11:002017-12-10T08:39:44.706+11:00Video of Germans trained Chinese troopsI just came across this video on youtube about the Chinese Nationalist army and their German friends.<br />
<br />
Great for a bit of inspiration. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<iframe allow="encrypted-media" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" gesture="media" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/lUGxZQRzQOg" width="560"></iframe><div class="blogger-post-footer"><p id="blogfeeds"><$BlogFeedsVertical$></p></div>Shelldrakehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10719790045474525633noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6135814733991170366.post-19399059515461110542017-12-10T08:07:00.000+11:002017-12-10T08:07:20.912+11:00Setting up for my first China vs Australia WW2 gameA couple of photos showing the Australians on patrol in the Jungle:<br />
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<a href="https://s26.postimg.org/8eow3u0t5/DQk4a7c_VAAA1u_Rs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://s26.postimg.org/8eow3u0t5/DQk4a7c_VAAA1u_Rs.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://s26.postimg.org/v2459zgd5/DQk4d_ZTUIAA8f_Mi.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="640" src="https://s26.postimg.org/v2459zgd5/DQk4d_ZTUIAA8f_Mi.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
<br />
This scene will be the jump off point for the game - the Australians have to reach a number of patrol points before making it back to the other side of the river.<br />
<br />
I will be playing with the DH: Point Blank rules, and using Platoon Forward for the management of the enemy. Although Platoon Forward is geared to, well..,, a Platoon, I am adapting the supplement to smaller sized units.<br />
<br />
I am also thinking of remaking my jungle scenery to make it look a lot more 'sexier'.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><p id="blogfeeds"><$BlogFeedsVertical$></p></div>Shelldrakehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10719790045474525633noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6135814733991170366.post-27616958133055323482017-12-08T19:25:00.001+11:002017-12-08T19:29:02.542+11:00Revisiting WW2 Alternative History - China as the aggressor<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
I am a big fan of alternative history settings, and years ago I painted up some 28mm WW2 Pacific war Aussies and some 28mm Chinese with the intention of doing a bit of work on some Alternative history with the two sides.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj31iCFpZeE0L7xam5J3rUaQDqrr9-2cNzSu5jqtel2D0hooWWm-JSqvcX4XvZyt8zoYbKhCwe0P8a1fvvBQ8npliFnHqhPvN6kXz2TAvviUaSY2cAEMVmLzxZ6rt2OE3RrhuRJ6raHnw8/s1600/sinogerman.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="256" data-original-width="293" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj31iCFpZeE0L7xam5J3rUaQDqrr9-2cNzSu5jqtel2D0hooWWm-JSqvcX4XvZyt8zoYbKhCwe0P8a1fvvBQ8npliFnHqhPvN6kXz2TAvviUaSY2cAEMVmLzxZ6rt2OE3RrhuRJ6raHnw8/s1600/sinogerman.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
I played one game of Bolt Action in the setting and didn't do anything more with it. Given I only have a section per side, and I am using the "DH: Point Blank" rules that only require a section per side, it might be time to kick this one back in to action.<br />
<br />
Like with all my alternative history settings, I like to base it as close to actual history as I possibly can.<br />
<br />
To this end, I am using the following actual history for my back ground:<br />
<br />
<i>In the 1880's until the end of WW1, China and Germany had very close ties, and China was getting help from Germany to modernise the country. This went a little pear shaped during WW1, and it wasn't until 1926 that things were getting back on track between the two countries, with German military trainers arriving the train the Nationalist Party of China.<br /><br />This really kicked up a notch when the Nazis came to power in 1933 and started training and supplying China with training and equipment in a much bigger scale.</i><br />
<br />
<i><br /></i>
<i> The Finance minister of China and Kuomintang official H.H.Kung and two other Chinese Kuomintang officials visited Germany in 1937 and were received by Adolf Hitler.</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXSnQGAAcM50mCQiNkSqstZQ3jxfxPwPvInGXWTG2HM9VbZftT8ggeQyWzKq2TBtbD3ns6IaA0L42E6MYXJadsIPXOhDVAwVM1Zcr6VPGe21UfmuJloT7-R8-KhzIv8YBVCyUy3c0Juok/s1600/Kung_and_hitler.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="365" data-original-width="500" height="233" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXSnQGAAcM50mCQiNkSqstZQ3jxfxPwPvInGXWTG2HM9VbZftT8ggeQyWzKq2TBtbD3ns6IaA0L42E6MYXJadsIPXOhDVAwVM1Zcr6VPGe21UfmuJloT7-R8-KhzIv8YBVCyUy3c0Juok/s320/Kung_and_hitler.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<i><br /></i>
<i><br /></i><i>Kung visited Hermann Göring<span style="color: black;"> </span>on June 11 and Göring told him he thought Japan was a "Far East Italy" (referring to the fact that during World War I Italy had broken its alliance and declared war against Germany), and Germany would never trust Japan.
Kung asked Göring "Which country will Germany choose as her friend,
China or Japan?", and Göring said China could be a mighty power in the
future and Germany would take China as friend.</i><br />
<br />
<br />
<b>With these points in mind I can start to weave a bit of alternative history in to the back ground.</b><br />
<br />
Historically, the Nationalists fought wars against the Communists and Warlords in China.<br />
<br />
In the alternative history, the warlords and communists were defeated and the nation united (except for maybe a small communist area close to Russia... just to allow for some future fun and games from that area).<br />
<br />
If this unification was done sooner rather than later, China would have the ability to modernise and build a very large army before the events leading up to WW2.<br />
<br />
Now, with such a large army and wanting avenge military humiliation at the hands of Europe and Japan from the 1800s onwards, China starts to flex its muscles and invade other nations for their natural resources to provide for their ever expanding modernisation.<br />
<br />
The Sino-Tibetan war of 1930-1932 would make an ideal jump off point for this aggression. <br />
<br />
The big question is what to do with Japan in this alternative history.<br />
<br />
Do I treat them like Britain - Japan could have its own Dunkirk as it is kicked out of Korea?<br />
<br />
This would put them on the back foot as they prepare to defend Japan from Chinese aggression. The main focus for Japan could be keeping their borders safe and conducting their own "Battle of Britain" as it were preventing China from launching it's own "Operation Sealion" against Japan.<br />
<br />
With no Japan as the main antagonist, there would be no Pearl Harbour, so no major involvement from the US, although China would invade the Philippines, but would that be enough to galvanise the American nation in to declaring war? <br />
<br />
Following the occupation of Korea, the other Asian nations bordering China would go next Southeast Asia and South Asia soon after that.<br />
<br />
This would give control over most of the areas Japan held during WW2.<br />
<br />
Britain, and thus Australia, are drawn in to the conflict when Singapore is captured.<br />
<br />
With most of Asia under China's control, Australia and the Pacific would be next in line for conquest.<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>Military Developement - the big factor</b><br />
<br />
As Nationalist China was equiped by Germany, including weapons, tanks and planes, it wouldn't be too hard to see early war German equipment in a game set in this alternative history.<br />
<br />
The question is, does China keep getting German support in the form of blueprints and new technology during the war?<br />
<br />
This is probably the most practicle way to game this conflict, so as to make for some games with a lot more gear to play with.<br />
<br />
<b>Wargaming the War</b><br />
<br />
Unfortunately, there isn't a large range of WW2 era Chinese figures to use for this alternative history.<br />
<br />
Brigade Games makes some 28mm Chinese Nationalists, some of which I have, and I can add WW2 German equipment in the form of tanks and trucks to the game easily enough.<br />
<br />
Eureka miniatures does some 15mm Chinese, but again, it isn't a large range. Eureka do make some lovely Australians, Gurkhas and early war US figures that would be great to game with though.<br />
<br />
The only other company that I know of that makes WW2 Chinese is Reiver Casting, who at least make some suport weapons in the form on mortars and HMGs. They also make artillery crew, so I could add German artillery or AT guns to the game.<br />
<br />
<br />
At the moment I have a section of Australians and Chinese to start playing with, and I could easily switch to using Eureka Miniatures 15mm range.<br />
<br />
At squad level plus some support weapons etc, 15mm wont break the bank, and I can play in smaller areas.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><p id="blogfeeds"><$BlogFeedsVertical$></p></div>Shelldrakehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10719790045474525633noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6135814733991170366.post-79903582058748423632017-11-30T10:28:00.002+11:002017-11-30T10:28:39.211+11:00wargaming bases, and how postage it killing Australian businessesI am in the process of ordering some MDF bases for some of my 28mm Skirmish games, in particular an ACW skirmish game I am tinkering with.<br />
<br />
I figured I would order about 30 get get me started, and I wanted to buy locally.<br />
<br />
One business is about 20mins down the road from me; it will cost $5.70 for 30 bases. Nice. They offer reasonable postage of $8 flat rate Australia wide. Not bad at $13.70, considering how must Aust Post is ripping the country off.<br />
<br />
Interstate #1: $17.80 in total <br />
<br />
Interstate #2: $19.90 in total.<br />
<br />
Interstate #3: $14.35 in total. <br />
<br />
Same State: $19.95 in total.<br />
<br />
Overseas: $4.42AUD <u><i><b>INCLUDING</b></i></u> postage. And this is for 40 bases... ten more than I was going to order.<br />
<br />
I really want to support Australian businesses, but I am on a very low income - people on unemployment benefits get more money than I do, just to put this in to perspective for the one or two followers of my blog I still have.<br />
<br />
As I just want the bases, I will go with the overseas mob. When I want some of the scenic items from the Australian stores I will go with them and add some bases to the order as well, but I don't really need and buildings at the moment.<br />
<br />
And Australia post complains they are not making money. This is because they provide a shit service and charge too much for it. Way to kill businesses Aust Post!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br /><div class="blogger-post-footer"><p id="blogfeeds"><$BlogFeedsVertical$></p></div>Shelldrakehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10719790045474525633noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6135814733991170366.post-71699845314628468372017-08-14T11:41:00.001+10:002017-08-14T11:41:35.194+10:0015mm / 20mm Urban terrain kickstarterI have backed my first kickstarter, and one that is in Australia.<br />
<br />
It is a modular MDF urban terrain system that can be purchased in either 15mm or 20mm scale.<br />
<br />
Postage is free to anyone in Australia, and there are good postage discounts for backers overseas (scroll down to the bottom of the campaign section to see these rates)<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/364110685/15mm-20mm-ww3-cold-war-urban-tabletop-wargame-terr/description" target="_blank">https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/364110685/15mm-20mm-ww3-cold-war-urban-tabletop-wargame-terr/description</a><br />
<br />
There is a video on the page showing the system, and images showing the terrain being set up.<br />
<br />
The owner of the kickstarter is very responsive to suggestions from backers.<br />
<br />
There are only four days left to go for anyone wanting to back it, and as it is fully funded, additional backers help unlock some add-ons for the project.<br />
<br />
I will be getting 15mm, as I want some scenery for my Modern Aussies, as well as for a 15mm zombie or sci-fi game.<br />
<br />
And yes, I have an interest in this project, as I am a backer myself.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><p id="blogfeeds"><$BlogFeedsVertical$></p></div>Shelldrakehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10719790045474525633noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6135814733991170366.post-25258057162049535032017-01-25T10:46:00.002+11:002017-01-25T10:46:21.514+11:00Quick and easy hedges for 15mm and 20mm gamesNormally I would post a topic on my blog and then share the link in forums, but this time I did it in reverse: I posted on the forum and then shared the link on my blog.<br />
<br />
Why?<br />
<br />
To show my support for The Wargames Website forum. TWW is oneof my favorite forums - everyone is nice and polite, and generally very helpful and supportive of peoples' projects.<br />
<br />
So, I am doing my bit to help promote the forum.<br />
<br />
To see how I made super easy and fast to make hedges, please click on the link below: <br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.thewargameswebsite.com/forums/topic/quick-and-easy-15mm-hedges/" target="_blank">TWW link</a><div class="blogger-post-footer"><p id="blogfeeds"><$BlogFeedsVertical$></p></div>Shelldrakehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10719790045474525633noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6135814733991170366.post-55941671033102088382017-01-22T11:33:00.001+11:002017-01-22T11:33:26.275+11:00First game of the 15mm Napoleonic campaignLast weekend I paid a visit to Eureka miniatures and purchased some AB Figures Napoleonics for a skirmish campaign.<br />
<br />
As I had a few units in my OOB, I decided to start painting the units one at a time, and whilst doing that, I would perform what some regard as heresy and play a game with unpainted miniatures! Gasp! Oh the Horror!<br />
<br />
Regardless of what others think on unpainted miniatures (and, not, that isn't an invitation to pass judgement via a comment to this post), I decided to play the first game of the campaign.<br />
<br />
The campaign is set n early 1814 when France was 'copping it a bit' from all sides (well, maybe three out of the four sides anyway).<br />
<br />
The rules being used are Nordic Weasel Games "FiveCore 3rd edition" with some modifications for the Napoleonic period. <br />
<br />
The British have just landed in the Netherlands and must meet up with allied troops before pushing on to Antwerp, and then on to Paris.<br />
<br />
For the first game, elements of the 95th Rifles are scouting ahead of the main force to determine what French troops are around.<br />
<br />
The Set up:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://s26.postimg.org/d2vvn4xjt/setup.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="476" src="https://s26.postimg.org/d2vvn4xjt/setup.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
The British had the option of setting up in either A or B, as marked on the map above.<br />
<br />
The French were placed as blinds in areas 1, 2 and the 3 that was the opposite to where the British started.<br />
<br />
The French force was unknown, and one of the blinds would be an actual enemy, the other two were shadows messing with the riflemen's heightened senses.<br />
<br />
This was a semi co-op game, in as much as I was the referee for the game.<br />
<br />
The Game:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />
The British began their patrol on the right hand flank of the area, with some of them skirting the forest along a small hedge, with the others moving forward to investigate the farm house.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />
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<br />
Half of the detachment on the left cross over the hedge to check out the area on their left flank.<br />
It is just as well they did, as a patrol of dismounted French Dragoons was lurking near by.<br />
<br />
The other half of the riflemen move closer to the farm house.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://s26.postimg.org/tx12sq1g9/100_3888.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://s26.postimg.org/tx12sq1g9/100_3888.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Three of the Riflemen fire at the Dragoons, dropping one and causing a second to flee.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />
The French fire back, knocking one Riflemand to the ground and causing a bit of panic in another. The Paniced Rifleman jumps back over the hedge to settle his nerves.<br />
<br />
The next British action sees some reloading and a Rifleman take aim at a Dragoon, who panics and retreats in to the forest.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://s26.postimg.org/u4opp8cex/100_3893.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="446" src="https://s26.postimg.org/u4opp8cex/100_3893.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
The Rifleman take advantage of a 'dash' move and jump the hedge between them and the Dragoons intending to close with them after firing a volley in to the Frenchmen.<br />
<br />
One Dragood is dispatched with a quick stab from a sword bayonet.<br />
<br />
The Dragoon officer is shot, even whilst trying to rally his troops who have fled in to the forest when faces with superior numbers. <br />
<br />
(Note, this took a couple of activations).<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />
Deciding they have had enough, the remaining French Dragoods beat a hasty retreat, leaving the British victors of this skirmish.<br />
<br />
The Riflemen have joined up with the remainder of the Battalion and are currently paying a visit to the Quarter Master, who is giving them some nice green uniforms. <br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: orange;"><b>Notes:</b></span></span><br />
<br />
This game was played on a 60cm x 60cm terrain tile.<br />
<br />
For small unit vs unit skirmishes I found this to be perfect; there was enough room to manoeuvre, and it was small enough that it forced the engagment, meaning the game didn't drag on too long.<br />
<br />
For larger games with multiple units per side, I would play in a bigger area. <br />
<br />
Between cups of tea and chatting, the game took roughly two hours to play.<br />
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The Dragoon force was only seven men, compared to the 14 men in the Rifle detachment, but only six of the Riflemen were involved in the actual battle.<br />
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The remaining Riflemen fell back towards their jump off point so as to not be exposed during the battle, and kind of just lurked there for the remainder of the game.<br />
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The rules are very easy to pick up on, and the only time I had to check the rules was to see if troops next to the hedge could actually take their shots.<br />
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Given the muskets/rifles needed to be reloaded, not a lot of reaction fire took place - this may have changed with different scenery, and if the remainder of the riflemen joined the battle. <br />
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I really love this game - it is easy, a lot of fun, the game play creates a story for the game as you play, making it excellent for a narrative. <br />
<br /><div class="blogger-post-footer"><p id="blogfeeds"><$BlogFeedsVertical$></p></div>Shelldrakehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10719790045474525633noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6135814733991170366.post-58675741620956481272017-01-06T08:44:00.001+11:002017-01-06T08:44:39.895+11:00Being held to account...Mrs Shelldrake is visiting her family in Japan for the whole of January, and I am using the members of The Wargames Website to help keep me focused on the hobby instead of missing my Wife.<br />
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You can follow the topic here: <a href="http://www.thewargameswebsite.com/forums/topic/keep-me-busy-this-january/" target="_blank">link</a><br />
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To this end, I have finished painting one giant spider and one PNG Mudman for a FiveCore Pulp game.<br />
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<div class="blogger-post-footer"><p id="blogfeeds"><$BlogFeedsVertical$></p></div>Shelldrakehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10719790045474525633noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6135814733991170366.post-91127582579621011542016-12-27T11:25:00.001+11:002016-12-27T11:25:30.817+11:00a plan for 2017?<br />
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I haven't really done too much gaming these last couple of years, so I want to try an implement a plan or a guideline for 2017.<br />
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What I hope to do for 2017 is focus on what I already have and only add to what I can or actually will use with either the figures already in my collection, or for the rules I already own.<br />
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<b><span style="color: orange;">15mm Scale games </span></b><br />
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<span style="color: orange;">Modern Conflicts/SciFi</span>:<br />
My Australian Platoon vs. an invading force (Chinese/Russian/?)<br />
vs. the zombie apocalypse<br />
vs. an Alien invasion (not Falling Skies)<br />
vs. an enemy on overseas deployment (unsure of who)<br />
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<span style="color: orange;">SciFi</span>: "Not" a TV show game, but inspired by: Some kind of warp gate game.<br />
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<span style="color: orange;">Napoleonic Skirmish</span>: playing a large skirmish game using 15mm figures.<br />
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I also have some 15mm WW2 Australians, and I am tempted to get enough to play some big skirmishes, but I also have 20mm for this. The good thing about the 15mm is I can easily get tanks and specialist equipment that I can't get for 20mm games.<br />
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<span style="color: orange;">20mm Games</span><br />
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WW2 - I have German Paras, Australian and Japanese, so I just really need to get a force to go up against the Germans and scenery for all theatre settings.<br />
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<span style="color: orange;">28mm Games</span><br />
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WW2 - I have invested enough in WW2 28mm that I don't want to abandon this, so I will play some skirmish level games with what I have, and add some extra figures if and when needed.<br />
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Napoleonic - I will play some smaller skirmish games to ties in with my 15mm plans.<br />
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French and Indian War - This might be one of my bigger focuses for 2017. I need to get more troops for the game, and work on some scenery, but it is something that really interests me and might get some focus in the coming year.<br />
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<span style="color: orange;">Zombies</span> - I have the figures, I just need more scenery to play a campaign.<br />
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<span style="color: orange;">Vietnam </span>- one of the few armies I have lots painted up and ready to go. And I do enjoy using my LRRPs from time to time. <br />
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<span style="color: orange;">Various</span> - I probably wont stray too far from the above, although I would like to get a lot more of some air battles in, notably modern and WW2. And some trials of different settings using figures I already have: Samurai and Pulp being the notable ones - both in 28mm.<br />
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<span style="color: orange;">Rules</span> - I intend to try and stick two a main set of rules for the year - notably the FiveCore rules from Nordic Weasel games. I intend to play all the skimrish games mentioned above with the FiveCore rules - from French and Indian wars, right through to the Sci-fi games.<br />
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The only exception to this is the dog fight games.<br />
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I wonder how much of my play would have survived by this time next year?<br />
<br /><div class="blogger-post-footer"><p id="blogfeeds"><$BlogFeedsVertical$></p></div>Shelldrakehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10719790045474525633noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6135814733991170366.post-15070882602322438372016-12-21T12:43:00.001+11:002016-12-21T12:43:26.038+11:00Target Locked On! - New modern air combat wargame rules by Rory Crabb<br />
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Well, 2016 was not really the wargaming haven I was looking for, but with any luck I can turn that around in 2017.<br />
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One of the things I actually hope to do a bit more of is modern air combat games.<br />
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It must have been 2011 when I last played a game of this nature, for I remember showing my Wife's family in Japan the blog post I made on the painted planes, as wargaming is not a common hobby in Japan.<br />
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Back then I was playing Airwar C21, and I liked the rules, but I never really did much about them.<br />
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Fast track to 2016, and in September a new set of rules called 'Target Locked On! was released, and I asked a question about the rules on TMP, but never did much about it.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://rorycrabb.files.wordpress.com/2016/09/target.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://rorycrabb.files.wordpress.com/2016/09/target.png" width="283" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">image a direct link from the authors blog: https://rorycrabb.wordpress.com/target-locked-on/</td></tr>
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I also recently asked Mr Crabb a question on Facebook about the rules, but ended up buying the rules before a reply came in.<br />
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I was surprised at how simple the rules were, yet how much 'flavour' for modern combat came out in the rules.<br />
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So, here is my initial review of the game, with hopefully a simple game play review to follow:<br />
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The game is designed for 1/300 or 1/600 miniatures, and can be played in a 4' x 4' area. As my planes have magnets on them for use on flight stands, I am thinking of using a white board as the playing surface so that I can save a bit of room.<br />
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The game uses d6, and this includes using some as altitude markers to help with game play.<br />
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There are only a few stats/characteristics for each aircraft which cover how they handle. One thing I do like is that each plane has a Fuel rating, which means games will be limited in how long combatants can remain during a game.<br />
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Game play is easy, and divided in to three phases: Reaction; which determines who moves first, Activation; each plane performs actions or actions in order according to the Reaction, and Morale: <br />
rather than letting players fight to the bitter end, this phase determines if a pilot will continue the battle or not.<br />
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When activated, each pilot is allowed one manoeuvre without needing to make a pilot skill check. A player can then attempt to push the pilot by making pilot skill checks. Once a check has failed, then that particular pilot's turn ends and the next pilot is activated.<br />
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Manoeuvres in the game are limited to a handful compared to modern fighter combat, but it wouldn't be too hard to add extra manoeuvres, or treat the ones in the rules as some of those employed by today's pilots. <br />
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Combat is a d6 roll with modifiers vs a target number, and includes the used of countermeansures.<br />
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Included in the game are also rules for ground attacks and weather conditions, as well as a number of scenarios.<br />
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Pilots are ranked from Rookie to Ace, and have a point system for game purposes accordingly, as do the planes themselves. Normally I am against point systems for games, but this one isn't the type you would be able to min-max as it actually works to have players using less planes rather than put together a massive unbeatable force.<br />
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For example, an F-16 with an Ace pilot will cost a player 140 points, which could be half of your points for a game. This seems fair enough to me, as it lets players put a lead plane and wingman for smaller games, and Flights for slightly larger point value games.<br />
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The initial number of planes covered in the rule book might be seem a bit limited - there are US, UK, Russian and French planes listed, but there is already a free download on the Author's web side that includes more planes.<br />
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And... if you ask very nicely, Mr Crabb may even come up with some stats for the planes you need stats for. I am hoping for some Chinese and Japanese stats for the 'what if' game I came up with back in 2011.<br />
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At the back of the rules are the record sheets for your planes, and the quick reference sheet. With both of these being used during game play, I feel confident that you wouldn't need to look in the rule book too much after a game or two.<br />
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What the game doesn't include are rules for solo or campaign play.<br />
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This isn't too much of a problem, as the reaction and morale rules are perfect for solo play - one just needs to play each plane one at a time and work out the results.<br />
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As for campaign play, it wouldn't be too hard to come up with a promotion system for Rookies to advance to Aces, or a system for resting pilots and making repairs for damage aircraft.<br />
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This concludes my initial review of the rules.<br />
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I intend to play a patrol scenario with two planes aside as a secondary review very soon.<br />
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Links:<br />
Buy the rules on <a href="http://www.wargamevault.com/product/194130/Target-LockedOn--Modern-Air-Combat-Wargame-Rules" target="_blank">Wargames Vault</a><br />
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The Author's web site with <a href="https://rorycrabb.wordpress.com/target-locked-on/" target="_blank">downloads</a><br />
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A page on <a href="http://www.combataircraft.com/en/Tactics/Air-To-Air/" target="_blank">Air to Air tactics</a><br />
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A page on <a href="http://www.combataircraft.com/en/Formations/" target="_blank">fighter formations</a><br />
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And this page lets you view each Nation's order of battle, plane stats and markings: <a href="http://www.combataircraft.com/roundels/index.aspx" target="_blank">link</a><br />
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<div class="blogger-post-footer"><p id="blogfeeds"><$BlogFeedsVertical$></p></div>Shelldrakehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10719790045474525633noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6135814733991170366.post-61046642918984071492016-09-30T12:04:00.000+10:002016-09-30T12:04:16.671+10:00Operation Unthinkable - a Two Hour Wargames NUTS! campaignI am currently playing a NUTS! campaign, with each player (two of us) contolling a section as part of a whole platoon.<br />
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The setting is a 'what if' Soviet invasion of West Europe towards the end of WW2.<br />
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This 'what if' has always interested me and I know both Churchill and Patton contemplated this scenario, with Churchill going so far as to have "Operation Unthinkable" drawn up: <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Operation_Unthinkable" target="_blank">Operation Unthinkable wiki link</a><br />
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Author Colin Gee has also written a number of novels on a Soviet attack on the West at the end of WW2, so this is great inspiration for the campaign setting: <a href="http://www.redgambitseries.com/" target="_blank">Red Gambit novels link</a><br />
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With this in mind, we are playing a low level operations campaign with British vs Soviets.<br />
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We have a British platoon as the basis, and support units to help out.<br />
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Each player has a Star to control, and we each take control of our own section, and the third section and HQ come in to play as needed, as do the support troops. <br />
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The map below is the basis for troop deployments, with our platoon being a small cog in the machine that is the British 2nd Army: <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Second_Army_(United_Kingdom)" target="_blank">Second army link</a><br />
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The enemy units will primarily come from the Soviet 49th Army. Historically the end of the war found the 49th army on the Elbe River in the vicinity of Ludwigslust where it encountered Second Army (United Kingdom). <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Soviet_armies" target="_blank">List of Soviet armies from WW2</a><br />
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This sets things up perfectly for my campaign.<br />
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<a href="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/11/Allied_army_positions_on_10_May_1945.png/800px-Allied_army_positions_on_10_May_1945.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="404" src="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/11/Allied_army_positions_on_10_May_1945.png/800px-Allied_army_positions_on_10_May_1945.png" width="640" /></a><br />
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As we are only playing a Platoon level game, the campaign map is small, and I have drawn one up using the campaign system from the Great Escape games book "Operations and Objectives".<br />
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I have also created some cards depicting each member of the platoon, and skills or attributes they have and equipment cards to use a reminder of what each one can do.<br />
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The red and blue magnets on the white board are being used for British postions and for Soviet blinds on the map. <br />
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Each hex equates roughly to the playing area for each game.<br />
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<div class="blogger-post-footer"><p id="blogfeeds"><$BlogFeedsVertical$></p></div>Shelldrakehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10719790045474525633noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6135814733991170366.post-45101095643738311612016-05-15T12:20:00.001+10:002016-05-15T12:20:19.331+10:00Star Wars X-wing Co-Op campaign rules<br />
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Again this is something I found else where and had no hand in creating it at all.<br />
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Someone has come up with some Star Wars X-wing solo/co-op campaign rules, and I like them so much I feel they should be shared:<br />
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<a href="http://dockingbay416.com/campaign/" target="_blank">X-wing co-op rules link</a><br />
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A lot of work has gone in to making the rules, and I think it will help rejuvenate my interest in the game.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><p id="blogfeeds"><$BlogFeedsVertical$></p></div>Shelldrakehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10719790045474525633noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6135814733991170366.post-22261010178549305502016-05-15T12:06:00.000+10:002016-05-15T12:06:02.972+10:00video on making treesI get a hobby email sent to me each week, and this tutorial was in this week's email.<br />
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I didn't make the video, I am just letting others know of it's existence.<br />
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There is a bit of work needed to make the trees, but I get the feeling once you have made some it would be much faster to make lots in one go.<br />
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I really like how the tree trunk is made too.<br />
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I might have a crack at using some of the ideas for making some trees, but only not so tall.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><p id="blogfeeds"><$BlogFeedsVertical$></p></div>Shelldrakehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10719790045474525633noreply@blogger.com0